Friday, 20 January 2017

A Very Flooring trip to Germany (Meiste)

A very Flooring trip to Germany

Thursday January 12th 2017



Starting off at Meister Flooring for the launch of their new wood flooring ranges.

Meister are one of leading European manufacturers of flooring based in Meiste, Germany.

Starting out as a small local family carpentry business 70years ago has now developed into a international €100million turnover company.

Meister now have over 650 employees with the majority being from the surrounding area. 

Meister also are very proactive with the younger generation and have a nationally recognized apprenticeship scheme.



How a company can grow.
The first picture on the left is te original small family home with a work shop/garage
From left to right we can see how Meister has grown over 70years   


The Meister Flooring POS showroom


Training center for Meister Flooring and Walls



Pictures from my tour...







Friday January 13th 2017

Fantastic show round of the Meister manufacturing plant (no photos allowed)

Heading over to Hannover for #Domotex2017

Transport : VW Crafter converted camper, well I am in Germany!!

Monday, 9 January 2017

DIY How to Replace a damaged Ceramic Tile

DIY How to 
Replace a damaged Ceramic Tile

Tools and Materials
Drop cloths and other coverings  
Replacement tiles  
A grout saw  
A clean cloth or sponge  
Safety goggles  
Latex gloves and work gloves  
Chisel  
Mason's hammer  
Large sponge  
Putty knife  
Bucket  
Wallboard patching plaster  
Water based tile adhesive  
Wall grout  
Rubber spatula or flexible plastic spreader

Even though ceramic tiles are among the most durable of materials, problems can and do occur. It is important for homeowners to know how to replace damaged ceramic tiles.

Ceramic tiles become damaged for many reasons, but one of the most common involves substandard installation. If the ceramic tiles are installed over a surface that is not sufficiently solid, damage can result. 

Accessories installed on the tiles may damage them, and the tiles may need to be replaced.

Step 1 - Protect the Area
Lay a canvas drop cloth or other covering to protect nearby surfaces

Step 2 - Prepare the Area
Use a grout saw to remove the grout from around the damaged tile to reduce the risk of damaging adjacent tiles. Work slowly and carefully to avoid causing further damage.

Step 3 - Break the Damaged Tile
Use a chisel or a mason's hammer to break away the damaged tile. The damaged tile can be broken into as many pieces as necessary to remove it. Do not to damage the base material. Wear protective goggles.

Step 4 - Prepare the Surface
Use a stiff putty knife to remove old adhesive or pieces of tile. If a hole was made in the wall while removing the tile, a patching plaster should be applied. If the hole is deeper than .25-inches, then it should be filled.

Step 5 - Apply Adhesive.
Coat the back of the replacement tile with a water based adhesive using a putty knife. The coat of adhesive should be even, but not too thick. It is important to read the instructions carefully before proceeding.

Step 6 - Place the Tile
The tile should be pressed firmly in place; ensure that it is flat and level with the surrounding tiles. The corner of the putty knife can be used to clean excess adhesive that may seep between the tiles. Excess adhesive can be removed from the face of the tile using a cloth or damp sponge.

Step 7 - Finishing
Once the tile has been pressed into place, the adhesive should be allowed to dry for at least 24 hours. When the adhesive is dry, the grout should be mixed according to the manufacturers' specifications and pressed into the joints using a rubber spatula or a flexible plastic spreader. When applying the grout, be sure to press firmly and move across the tile joints in a diagonal direction

DIY How to Drill a hole in a ceramic tile

DIY How to 
Drill a hole into a Ceramic tile


Tools and Materials
Electric drill
Carbide-tipped masonry drill bit or diamond-tipped drill bit  
Masking tape  
Wood  
Water  
Regular drill bit  
Wall anchors

Your tiled wall is finished and ready for furniture, but mounting those requires drilling through the tile. 
Before you break into that smooth surface, you need to know how to drill the necessary holes without cracking and ruining any of the tile and wasting your hard work. 

So where do you start?

Step 1 - Choose the Drill Bit
Regular drill bits are not strong enough to drill through the hard surface of tile. There are two common drill bits recommended for this task instead.

Carbide-tipped masonry drill bits are probably the most widely known for drilling into tile. They are designed for breaking through rock-hard surfaces, and with patience and care can be used effectively for this without causing the tile to break or crack.

Diamond-tipped drill bits are even more durable and are recommended by many for boring through hard tile surfaces. They may be more expensive, but they will not burn out as easily as masonry bits.

Step 2 - Breaking Ground
The most difficult part of drilling into tile without ruining it is getting through the hardened, glazed outer surface. Tiles are made to be strong to withstand a lot of abuse, but the characteristics that make them durable home products also render them resistant to drilling.

Even starting is not easy because the bit tends to skip around on the top surface rather than bite into the tile, but there are a few "tricks of the trade" you can employ.

Begin by making an "X" over the tile in the spot to be drilled using masking tape. Be sure to measure again after applying the masking tape so the hole is not misplaced, then start your drill bit into the tape. The tape gives the bit the necessary surface traction.

Scratching an "X" into the tile at the point of drilling works in a similar fashion, providing enough of a place for the bit to grip without skittering around the slick surface. Be careful not to scratch into an area that will be leave visible, unsightly marks on your tile.

A reusable way to keep the drill bit in place and avoid having to continuously apply tape is to notch out a small area from a block of wood. Hold the "keeper" in place over the drill hole with your free hand.

Step 3 - Boring Through
Once the bit is started, the rest is a matter of patiently boring through the tile until you break through. Hard tiles can take some time. Start drilling slowly, on low speed. Gradually increase the speed as appropriate, but understand that drilling tile is not a question of speed, rather persistence. Apply constant, firm pressure, but not too much or you will break through the tile rather than drilling into it.

The tip of the drill bit should be kept lubricated to keep from overheating, wearing down, or breaking. Water is the safest way to lubricate and cool the drill bit as you go. Devise a hose system to deliver a constant trickle of water over the bit, or spray as you go with water. An extra set of hands is useful here, but if you are on your own, pause periodically to spray the drill bit (tip area only). Of course, use common sense and never spray water into or directly on the motorized portion of the drill. Getting boring, lubrication, speed, and pressure right takes some practice. For best results, start slow and prepare to take your time, gently increasing speed and pressure as needed.

Step 4 - The Backside
Once you are through the tile itself, the pressure is off. The rest of the project should be smooth drilling to push through the wall board or mounting surface. Decrease the speed and pressure or switch to a regular drill bit to finish the hole through the wall board. Avoid crashing through wall board surfaces, or the back side of the wall will be blown apart and will not hold wall anchors.

Once you're through, insert the wall anchors. The portion of the anchor that sits into the tile should house only an unthreaded screw top. Expanding an anchor in a tile with a threaded screw may crack it. Instead, the board behind the tile should be relied on for anchoring.

Step 5 - Finish
Your hole is now complete and ready for hanging items. With your first tile-drilling experience over, subsequent attempts should only get easier using the knowledge you have gleaned from this project. With patience, persistence, and a little luck, hopefully you won't need to read up on...
DIY How to remove and replace a broken ceramic tile


DIY How to Install Ceramic Tiles on the Floor

DIY How to Install 
Ceramic Tiles on the Floor

Tools & Materials Required

Level
Goggles
Carpenter's Square
Sponge
Rubber Grout Float
Tape Measure
Hammer
Notched Trowel or Spreader
Buckets
Tile Cutter or Tile Saw
Rubber Gloves
Knee Pads
Materials
Grout
Tile
Tile Adhesive
Silicone Caulk
Silicone Grout Sealer
Cleaning Cloths

Preparing to Install Floor Tile

First, make sure you have prepared the subfloor properly before you begin laying tile. 
Before beginning, remove tiles from the different boxes and randomly mix them to ensure that minor color differences don’t form an unwanted pattern in your new floor. 
Keep in mind that floor tiles should be laid with the first tile centered in the middle of the floor, working onward from that.

Step 1
Mix the polymer-modified thinset mortar in a bucket to the consistency recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 2
Spreading the Mortar.
Starting at the reference line cross in the middle of the room, spread the mortar with the thin side of the trowel in areas about 3 feet by 3 feet. Make sure that the reference lines are not obscured.

Step 3
Combing the Mortar.
Apply the mortar using the notched side of the trowel held at a 45 degree angle. Comb the mortar in one straight direction to ensure uniform application.

Step 4
Remove excess mortar with the trowel and return it to the bucket.

Good to Know...
Some ceramic tiles have spacers built into the tile itself!

Installing Floor Tile

Step 1
Laying the First Tile.
Lay the first tile square at the crossing of the reference lines. For best results, lightly press and twist the tiles to set them in the mortar.

Step 2
Place tile spacers at the edges of the first tile.

Step 3
Tiles with Spacers.
Continue laying tiles in the same manner along the reference lines, then add spacers.

Step 4
Leveling the Tile.
Once you have completed a work section, use a rubber mallet and carpenter’s level to level the tile.

Step 5
Remove any excess mortar with a damp sponge.

Step 6
Continue applying thinset mortar and laying the tile in work sections in the same manner. Make adjustments as needed so the tiles are aligned straight, especially along the longest dimension of the room where variations will show.

Step 7
Apply thinset mortar and set the cut tile in position. Add tile spacers as needed.

Step 8
Allow the thinset mortar to dry for at least 24 hours or as recommended by the manufacturer before continuing.

Good to Know...
For tiles that are 12 inch by 12 inch or larger it’s a good idea to back-butter or flat-coat the backs of the tiles with thinset prior to setting the tiles.

Cutting and Fitting the Tile

As you near cabinets, doorways, walls, and other flooring stops, trim tiles as needed for installation. 
Use a tile cutter for small, straight cuts.
Use a tile saw (rentable) if necessary for cutting numerous or thick tiles. 
For making curved cuts, you can use tile nippers. 
If the tile is too thick for nippers, try the following method:

Step 1
Mark the curve on the tile.

Step 2
Make relief cuts with a tile saw.

Step 3
Snap off the pieces with tile nippers.

Step 4
Use a file to smooth down the edges. Use a tile edging strip along carpet, wood flooring and other entry ways. Just spread the thinset, then set the strip in the mortar. The tile will hold it in place.

Good to Know...
Remember to cut tiles an extra 1/4 inch smaller at the edge of the flooring to allow for mortar and expansion.

Smoothing Breaks in Tile

Jagged Edges: Use tile nippers or pliers to nibble off the uneven edge of a broken tile.
Rough Edges: Use a round file to smooth rough edges of areas that have been nibbled away.
Cut Edges: If a straight-cut edge shows, rub it against a sheet of 80-grit aluminum oxide sandpaper to round and smooth the edge.

Grouting a Tile Floor

Step 1
Remove the tile spacers from between tiles.

Step 2
Mix the grout following the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure you use the proper water-to-mix ratio for a paste-like consistency.  (If you have well water, purchase distilled water to mix the grout.)

Step 3
How to Grout Tile.
Apply the grout into the joints, then diagonally across the joints with a rubber grout float, removing as much excess as possible.

Step 4
Allow the grout to dry for 20 minutes or as recommended by the manufacturer.

Step 5
Wiping the Grout Lines with a Sponge.
Wipe the grout lines in a circular motion with a sponge and water to set the grout just below the tile surface. Follow up with a grout haze remover to clean the tile.

Step 6
Once the grout is installed, avoid heavy traffic on the floor for at least 72 hours to allow the grout to dry.

Step 7
Wait approximately three weeks for the grout to cure completely before sealing the grout.

Step 8
Applying Grout Sealer to the Joints.
Apply a grout sealer to the joints following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 9
Install any trimwork or transition strips.

DIY How to Guide to Carpet underlay

DIY How to Guide to Carpet underlay

What is Carpet Underlay? How is it made?

Polyurethane Foam (PU)


All branded PU foam underlays are part of the Tredaire brand, a byword for luxurious, underfoot comfort. 
PU is particularly good at insulation and impact sound reduction, and is inherently comfortable. 
It is also lightweight, making it easy to carry and fit.




So how is it made?

The foam used in PU underlay is either from offcuts or trimming from other processes, or are recycled after use such as furniture foam, so all of the foam is recycled in some way. 
This foam is shredded and then granulated into smaller pieces. 
It is mixed and coated with a binding agent before moulding into a large ‘log’ of a pre-defined density. 
The log is subjected to steam under high pressure to cure the binding agent and bond the material together. 
he log is then dried to remove residual moisture and peeled to a pre-defined product thickness.

During the lamination stage, backing and films are applied. 
The underlay is then finished, trimmed, cut and rolled, and finally wrapped into branded polythene packaging.


Manufacturing of sponge rubber for Tredaire and Duralay ranges

Sponge rubber


The sponge rubber underlays fit into both the Tredaire brand family (the comfort oriented ones such as Colours Red) and the Duralay family (for the more specialist ones such as Technics).

Sponger rubber underlays are the most traditional form of underlay and have been around since the 1950s. 
They are extremely comfortable; no other underlay produces quite the same feel underfoot.
They are also exceptionally good at minimising both impact sound and airborne sound between rooms. 
They are incredibly flexible and cover more applications than any other type of underlay.

The manufacturing process

The styro butadiene synthetic rubber (SBR) is blended with oils, blowing agents and fillers to create the desired performance characteristics. 
This is followed by a process called calendarising, where the mix is converted to a smooth and consistent paste.

Once the paste is ready it is rolled into a wide thin sheet, and this in turn is rolled onto a chain to produce the desired profile of either a ‘flat’ or ‘waffle’ underlay. 
The sheet is then heated at temperatures up to 250˚c and blown, cured and allowed to cool. Finally it is trimmed, cut, rolled and wrapped into branded polythene packaging.

Manufacturing process of crumb rubber underlay products

Crumb rubber


Extremely durable, crumb rubber underlays are amazing at reducing impact and airborne noise and are the only type of underlay that can achieve 100% recovery from loading. 
Therefore being the number one choice for hard wearing, high traffic and very large areas.

The rubber comes from used car tyres, so the basic raw material comes from 100% recycled sources. 
Every square metre of crumb rubber underlay contains the rubber of at least one car tyre!

The used car tyres are ground and processed to produce tiny crumbs. These are mixed with latex foam, and the mixture is then poured on to various types of backing material and the gauge or thickness of the underlay is set. 
The underlay is then passed through a large oven, heated up to 250˚c and then cured and cooled. 
Finally it is trimmed, cut, rolled and wrapped into branded polythene packaging.

Latex foam


Latex is a milky white liquid compressed of rubber particles dispersed in water. It is inherently anti-microbial and dust-mite resistant. 
It is not plastic foam like polyurethane, but is a denser product made of rubber.





Duralay Counterflame is made in this way and contains ATH which breaks down under heat to form water, giving the underlay a self-extinguishing property. 

It is IMO certified flame retardant underlay.

The process

Synthetic latex in liquid form is mechanically frothed to create bubbles. 
The frothed latex is then flowed onto a belt/roller system carrying the backing which guarantees strong adhesion as the contact happens in the wet phase. 
The composite is then cured at a high temperature where excess moisture is also driven off. 
The curing ovens create three rolls simultaneously which are trimmed, cut and wrapped.



DIY How to Choose the correct Carpet Underlay

DIY How to Choose the correct Carpet Underlay


New underlay makes the carpet :
• Feel better (new underlay can make the carpet feel luxurious underfoot)
• Look better (new underlay will help to sustain the appearance of the carpet) 
• Last longer (new underlay will ensure that the carpet lasts for its expected life)

What Types Are Available :
• Thick sponge underlay for luxurious underfoot comfort
• Medium sponge underlay for bedrooms
• Basic sponge underlay for spare bedrooms
• Crumb rubber underlay for high traffic areas
• Crumb rubber underlay for double /single stick applications to suit wheelchairs, walking aids, natural floor coverings or border carpets.
• Sponge rubber underlay for underfloor heating under carpet / wood & laminate flooring

Using the following diagram we have itemised the recommended underlay for the specified area...


Master bedroom :  
Looking for medium underfoot comfort –
Recommend a medium sponge underlay  

Conservatory (at rear) : 
With a natural floorcovering (such as coir, sisal or seagrass) – 
Recommend a double stick crumb underlay 

Lounge : 
Looking for luxurious underfoot  comfort –
recommend a thick sponge or PU underlay.

Underfloor heating:
Recommend a specialist underfloor heating underlay with a low tog rating  

Hallway:  
Laminate flooring: looking to reduce sound – recommend a noise reducing underlay 
Carpet - look for durability due to high traffic
Recommend a crumb/felt , PU or thick sponge underlay

Staircase & Landing: 
Looking for durability due to high traffic
Recommend a crumb/felt combination underlay

Spare Bedroom
Looking for minimal underfoot comfort
Recommend a basic sponge underlay  

Dining room: 
Heavy furniture may be moved around for entertaining
Recommend a crumb rubber or PU underlay

Are wheelchairs/ walking aids used?  
Is there a border carpet?
Recommend a double / single stick crumb rubber underlay

DIY How to Install Solid Wood Flooring

Solid Wood Flooring Installation Guide

Tools and Fixings
General
  • Soft Brush + Shovel
  • Drill bit set
  • Tape measure
  • Rubber Mallet
  • Chalk Line + chalk
  • Power Jigsaw / Power saw / Hand saw / Undercut saw
  • Power Drill
Safety + Care
  • Earplugs and safety glasses
  • Recommended solid wood floor cleaner (see maintenance instruction sheet)
  • Coloured wood filler / coloured wax (candle wax will suit)
Fixings
  • Barbed cleat nails to suit manual / pneumatic secret nailer
  • Tongue tight screws - suitable for DIY installation
  • Adhesive + applicator


Pre-installation procedures
  • The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry, framing embers, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry. The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed. Basements and crawl/void spaces must be appropriately dry and well ventilated.
  • Solid wood flooring must be installed on or above DPM level. Do not install in bathrooms or any form of “wet” room, conservatory, or high humidity environment room.
  • The sub floor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing method and moisture meter and the appropriate moisture levels must be achieved before installation of the flooring (see page)
  • Open one box fully and check to ensure it is the correct product, acceptable colour shade, and correct length specification. If there are any product queries or concerns at this stage DO NOT open any further boxes and contact your supplier within the specified time period above.
  • If you are satisfied that the product is correct and suitable for the intended end use environment then remove the protective plastic wrapping only from the boxes and open the edges and ends of the boxes to aid the acclimatisation
  • Stack the packs in such a manner to provide at least a 100mm air space under the cartons. The packs should also be stacked on dry battens rather than directly onto the subfloor.
  • Acclimatise your product for minimum of 48 hours, preferably 72 hours

Sub-floor Preparation

CLEAN
Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives, curing agents and other debris.
Note: Unclean or contaminated sub floors can result in adhesive bonding failure.
LEVEL/FLAT
British standards states that the subfloor must be no greater than +/- 3mm over a 3 metres span. Sand high areas or joints. Level  low spots with layers of floor grade marine plywood for wooded sub floors or a cement based floor levelling compound for concrete sub floors.
Floorboard stabalisation is also usually required when installing solid wood flooring. Use a minimum of 6mm floorgrade plywood nailed every 100mm with 20mm ring nails.
Note: Uneven sub floors can result in popping, squeaking, hollow spots and premature failure of the floor.
Note: Laminated resin/bitumen moisture barrier paper acts as a moisture retarder and is recommended to be used when installing the solid wood flooring over an existing wooden suspended sub floor or when installing directly onto existing joists.
Note: Failure to protect the floor from excess moisture from below can result in the floor cupping, expanding and bridging. Shrinking due to an excessively dry sub floor can result in gapping and splitting of the boards.


WE RECOMMEND THAT A PROFESSIONAL FLOORING INSTALLER BE CONTRACTED AND THAT THE
INSTALLATION IS BY NAILING OR FULL STICK DOWN METHOD WITH A SUITABLE SPECIALIST WOOD
FLOORING ADHESIVE.
On completion of the Pre-Installation and Sub floor preparation tasks the following steps should be followed for installation.
1. Under cut the bottom of door frames, wardrobes, etc. to allow for the floor board to fit under it, plus always leave a full 15mm(minimum) expansion gap around the full perimeter of
the floor.
2. Open 4 or 5 packs and “shuffle” the boards to ensure an even distribution of colour and character.
3. The industry standard of 5% waste shall apply for defects and cutting.
4. If you discover a defective piece DO NOT LAY IT. You are the final judge of acceptable quality. 5. Ideally boards should be laid ‘end on’ to the incoming daylight. The first board should be laid groove to the wall allowing for a minimum expansion gap of 15mm between the wall and the first board, then continue with the 15mm expansion gap around the full perimeter of the room.
DO NOT butt up against any fixed construction such as wall, door frames, pipes, partitions etc.

Nail Down Installations
It is recommended to use a professional flooring nailer for this product, this is called a Porta-nailer or Secret nailer.

Direct to joist - The joists or battens should be sound rigid and level with moisture content no greater than 12-14% at the time of fixing the solid floor. Where the solid flooring is to be fixed to ground floor joists, adequate under-floor ventilation and appropriate protection against damp
must be provided.
Battens fixed to a concrete/screed base - the conditions described above should be met; i.e. the
base must be dry. The battens should be not less than 36mm wide for a fixed floor and of sufficient depth to accommodate the length of the flooring fixings. End to end joists between battens should be staggered throughout the floor area to avoid creating a line of
weakness. Battens are usually laid at 300 – 400mm centres and fixed with either screws, clips or appropriate adhesive to the sub-floor.

Stick Down Installations
You must use a professionally formulated specialist wood flooring adhesive that is either alcohol or polyurethane based, always ensuring the manufacturers guidelines are strictly followed on application. Both trowel and glue batten systems are acceptable.
DO NOT add adhesive to the tongue and groove system of the solid wood flooring. This will restrict the movement of the solid wood and makes the joints very brittle.  
Always try keep glue off the surface area of the boards and do not let any surplus adhesive dry on the finished flooring as this is very difficult to remove and may require sanding.

Installation - step by step

Step 1
First row, measure out your expansion spacing and lay down the boards with the groove towards the wall and insert the spacers. You may need to cut the first row to match the wall contours to ensure the solid wood floor goes down straight even if the walls are not. When you are satisfied with the alignment, fix the first row  to the subfloor at the appropriate intervals.
Note: when using the 'stick down' method use a rapid setting flexible adhesive to adhere the first couple of rows.
Step 2
Start the second row with a short board (about 20-25cm long) to stagger your joints. Staggering should be random to prevent any 'stair-stepping'
Note: when using adhesive the first 2-3 rows must be allowed to set. This will give a firm base to tap against when installing the main floor area. If clamps are to be used then again you must let the adhesive set before attaching the clamps or they will lift the floor.
Step 3
When using the 'stick-down' method it is advised to 'weight' the floor down whilst installing. This can be acheived by using the unused packs of wood flooring, tools box, sand bags, etc. This will ensure the wood flooring 'beds' itself into the adhesive and to give full transfer of adhesive onto the wood.
'Weighting' is generally not needed when using a mechanical fix such as nails or screws.

Step 4
Nail Down method
Because your nailer/stapler may not fit between the wall and the boards face/top nailing (through the top of the board) is generally required. Dry fit last row into place. Use the mallet and pull bar to fit each board tightly to each other. On the last row mark out your expansion gap and put your spacers in place, you may have to cut the boards to fit to profile to the wall if its out or not straight.
Lay the boards with the tongue or cut edge nearest the wall and tap together so that all the boards are tight. When satisfied with the fit, face/top nail the last row in place. To hide the nail holes use a colour coded filler or coloured wax to hide the holes.
Stick Down method
Before you install the last row when using adhesive, ensure that the main floor area has had enough time to strengthen its bond, most specialist adhesives take approx 30mins to 'grab' properly. Rapid setting flexible adhesive could also used.

Step 5
Remove all weights /  clamps / spacers, fit new skirting boards or cover the expansion gap with scotia. and your solid wood floor is now ready for use.

Installation Tips
Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• When possible, preselect and set aside boards that blend best with all floor mounted moldings used to ensure a uniform final appearance. Install these boards adjoining the moldings.
• Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 4″–6″ (10–15 cm),  in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
• Large spans exceeding 20′ (6 m) in hardwood flooring width, in areas of high humidity, may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10–20 rows inserted above the tongue. Remove the spacers after several adjoining rows have been fastened.Do not leave spacers in for more than two hours.
• When installing products of uniform length, begin the rows with starter boards cut to various lengths. Avoid staggering the rows uniformly to prevent stair-stepping. Boards cut from the opposite end of the row may be used for the next starter boards.
• Always allow a minimum 3/4″ (19 mm) expansion around all vertical obstructions.

If your slightly confused at this point please go straight to our recommended installers section

Installation - After Care

1. Correct humidity and temperature conditions must be maintained within the environment that the flooring is installed.
2. Mats on both sides of entrance ways, not for decoration.
3. Prevent water being walked or leaked onto the floor at all times especially at entrance ways.
4. Do not install this type of flooring in bathrooms, kitchens or conservatories where leaks or excessive humidity may occur. Consult you supplier who will advise.
5. When cleaning use water sparingly and mop dry after cleaning removing all excess water.
6. Immediately remove stains and spillages.
7. Protect your floor by using good quality felt pads under all furniture.
8. Always follow a professional maintenance program.

Congratulations! You have just installed your first Wood Floor