must be provided.
Battens fixed to a concrete/screed base - the conditions described above should be met; i.e. the
base must be dry. The battens should be not less than 36mm wide for a fixed floor and of sufficient depth to accommodate the length of the flooring fixings. End to end joists between battens should be staggered throughout the floor area to avoid creating a line of
weakness. Battens are usually laid at 300 – 400mm centres and fixed with either screws, clips or appropriate adhesive to the sub-floor.
Stick Down Installations
You must use a professionally formulated specialist wood flooring adhesive that is either alcohol or polyurethane based, always ensuring the manufacturers guidelines are strictly followed on application. Both trowel and glue batten systems are acceptable.
DO NOT add adhesive to the tongue and groove system of the solid wood flooring. This will restrict the movement of the solid wood and makes the joints very brittle.
Always try keep glue off the surface area of the boards and do not let any surplus adhesive dry on the finished flooring as this is very difficult to remove and may require sanding.
Installation - step by step
Step 1
First row, measure out your expansion spacing and lay down the boards with the groove towards the wall and insert the spacers. You may need to cut the first row to match the wall contours to ensure the solid wood floor goes down straight even if the walls are not. When you are satisfied with the alignment, fix the first row to the subfloor at the appropriate intervals.
Note: when using the 'stick down' method use a rapid setting flexible adhesive to adhere the first couple of rows.
Step 2
Start the second row with a short board (about 20-25cm long) to stagger your joints. Staggering should be random to prevent any 'stair-stepping'
Note: when using adhesive the first 2-3 rows must be allowed to set. This will give a firm base to tap against when installing the main floor area. If clamps are to be used then again you must let the adhesive set before attaching the clamps or they will lift the floor.
Step 3
When using the 'stick-down' method it is advised to 'weight' the floor down whilst installing. This can be acheived by using the unused packs of wood flooring, tools box, sand bags, etc. This will ensure the wood flooring 'beds' itself into the adhesive and to give full transfer of adhesive onto the wood.
'Weighting' is generally not needed when using a mechanical fix such as nails or screws.
Step 4
Nail Down method
Because your nailer/stapler may not fit between the wall and the boards face/top nailing (through the top of the board) is generally required. Dry fit last row into place. Use the mallet and pull bar to fit each board tightly to each other. On the last row mark out your expansion gap and put your spacers in place, you may have to cut the boards to fit to profile to the wall if its out or not straight.
Lay the boards with the tongue or cut edge nearest the wall and tap together so that all the boards are tight. When satisfied with the fit, face/top nail the last row in place. To hide the nail holes use a colour coded filler or coloured wax to hide the holes.
Stick Down method
Before you install the last row when using adhesive, ensure that the main floor area has had enough time to strengthen its bond, most specialist adhesives take approx 30mins to 'grab' properly. Rapid setting flexible adhesive could also used.
Step 5
Remove all weights / clamps / spacers, fit new skirting boards or cover the expansion gap with scotia. and your solid wood floor is now ready for use.
Installation Tips
Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• When possible, preselect and set aside boards that blend best with all floor mounted moldings used to ensure a uniform final appearance. Install these boards adjoining the moldings.
• Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards at least 4″–6″ (10–15 cm), in adjacent rows. This will help ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
• Large spans exceeding 20′ (6 m) in hardwood flooring width, in areas of high humidity, may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10–20 rows inserted above the tongue. Remove the spacers after several adjoining rows have been fastened.Do not leave spacers in for more than two hours.
• When installing products of uniform length, begin the rows with starter boards cut to various lengths. Avoid staggering the rows uniformly to prevent stair-stepping. Boards cut from the opposite end of the row may be used for the next starter boards.
• Always allow a minimum 3/4″ (19 mm) expansion around all vertical obstructions.
If your slightly confused at this point please go straight to our recommended installers section
Installation - After Care
1. Correct humidity and temperature conditions must be maintained within the environment that the flooring is installed.
2. Mats on both sides of entrance ways, not for decoration.
3. Prevent water being walked or leaked onto the floor at all times especially at entrance ways.
4. Do not install this type of flooring in bathrooms, kitchens or conservatories where leaks or excessive humidity may occur. Consult you supplier who will advise.
5. When cleaning use water sparingly and mop dry after cleaning removing all excess water.
6. Immediately remove stains and spillages.
7. Protect your floor by using good quality felt pads under all furniture.
8. Always follow a professional maintenance program.
Congratulations! You have just installed your first Wood Floor